What Radios Will I Buy?

Started by gil, March 10, 2016, 03:30:24 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

gil

Hello,

After losing all my gear I find myself in a peculiar position, to have to buy new radios. But now I know much more than I did when I started, so how will this affect my choices?

I can think of two radios I want to get right off the bat, an Elecraft K1, which I will need to build, and a Weber MTR, which I will need to buy from LNR Precision this time. The K1s only come with a two-band module now but I want to concentrate on 20 and 40m anyway. The K1 I want for its receiver, and left's face it, it looks awesome ;-) The Weber I want for its portability, full band coverage and 5W output in such a tiny package. Of course they are both Morse code radios only, but I consider Morse code to be the best mode ever for prepping, ya'll know me well ;)

My third choice might come as a surprise: The Yaesu FT-817nd. Why a surprise, well, because I used to own an Elecraft KX3 which is a better radio and draws less current. Make no mistake, if I could only buy one radio it would be a KX3, and I might still opt to buy one instead of a K1/Yaesu combo. After all, it would still cost me less than those two. The reason I like the Ft-817nd is because it is more rugged than the KX3. Nothing a Pelican case can't solve you might say, but the KX3 I suspect won't take even a light rain or drizzle. I'll have to think hard about those options, and I really like the K1, though choice. The Weber MTR, no choice, got to have one!

As possible second runners I would include an MFJ-9420X and some kind of single band 80m CW rig, like a Ten-Tec or even MFJ Cub, just to dabble with 80m while camping. The 9420 would be an excellent light SSB radio to take camping as well or on a boat, which I still hope to do.

I am not so interested in other bands than 20/40/80m now, since those can do everything, and there wouldn't be any annoying contests after TEOTWAWKI anyway :o There is always the MTR on 30m for those week-ends...

Other gear I will need include a multimeter, QRP Wattmeter, soldering station and a couple end-fed tuners. Yes, unfortunately all that was on the boat...

So, if you lost all your gear, what would you buy back right away?

Gil.

PS: Anyone wondering "what is he talking about, what boat?" See http://svdagny.com.

NCGunDude

Gil, welcome back, even though you never really left! Thanks for the updates on your blog. You're more adventurous than I. Although, having grown up on the coast of NC and sailing small boats, owning  and sailing a small cruiser would be awesome! It's a shame that something as simple as an anchor line ended things abruptly. I have no delusions about my abilities, physical or otherwise, extended cruising where there's only me, the boat, and the great wide open isn't something I'll endeavor to do, although some camping may be in order :)

Your choices sound reasonable. I would start small, and add to your kit as funds allow. Good luck putting the pieces back together. 73

cockpitbob

Good to hear from you again Gil.
Personally I would go with the MTR and an FT817.  In one box the 817 gives you the 80/40/20 you want, plus 2M and 70cm.  You get all the modes including digital capabilities.  I think any prepping plan should include email capability.  It will be useless in a total EOTWAWKI, but the more likely scenario is wide area loss of power or communications utilities.  Your friends and relatives outside the affected area will want to hear from you.  The 817 also gives you a wide coverage receiver able to get you normal broadcast stations plus aircraft, marine and other bands.  Yes, the 350mA current draw sucks, but battery technology is so much better than it was 10 years ago that I don't see it as that big an issue.

BTW, I have an old MFJ9420 with the CW board.  It's not much of a CW rig.  Bandwidth is wide open in CW.   It has no built in keyer.  For side tone it either has a piezo beeper or you install a jumper and you get side tone in the speaker/headphones, but it has a gigantic thump due to the AC coupling in the circuitry.  The thup is so bad it's basically unusable.

K7JLJ

Hello Gil,
I never saw if you had insurance to cover the boat?

I'd get the KX3 and the MTR myself, but the KX3 would be my primary as your MTR is likely to be yours?

If that's the case as you found before the KX3 would be wasted and the FT-817 would be a better choice as a second radio.

I'm saving for the KX3 to replace my FT-817 but will keep both for digital NVIS for SHTF


- Jim
-Jim

gil

Thanks guys.

The K1 was my primary, and the KX3 when I had it, but I used the MTR regularly, even at home. It was of course my go-to radio for outdoors!

No insurance on the boat :- ( I lost about $25K.

Gil

cockpitbob

The only insurance I carry is for things that would ruin me (house) and that I'm legally required to have ( car and health). In the long run the insurance companies make money off us. 

Sparks

#6
Quote from: gil on March 10, 2016, 03:30:24 AM
I can think of two radios I want to get right off the bat, an Elecraft K1, which I will need to build, and a Weber MTR, which I will need to buy from LNR Precision this time.  The Weber I want for its portability, full band coverage and 5W output in such a tiny package. Of course they are both Morse code radios only, but I consider Morse code to be the best mode ever for prepping, ya'll know me well

I am a Morse code and QRP only kind of person. More than 40 years ago I worked several years as a shipboard Radio Officer. I also had a ham license, but I have been QRT for these 40 years. Recently I found I still had a right to my license and my old C/S, so I am trying to get back in. The only pieces of equipment I have from the good old days are a Vibroplex semi-automatic bug (the Original Deluxe) and a Morse training oscillator.

I lust for a pre-built Elecraft KX3 (I am not into miniature soldering any more), but I don't know if I can ever afford it. The Weber MTR seems like a good starting point for me, but I cannot find any LNR Precision Internet site (nor elsewhere) where it is actually being sold, ready-made. Can you tell me more? (And if I acquire one, I will need advice about keying it in the field and what else I need, like a mobile antenna, of course.)

cockpitbob

Here's LNR's ordering page, but it's out of stock which is maybe what you meant.

If you still have a soldering iron, I hear Steve Weber's Tri-bander is a great rig, and it's all thru-hole components.  Pick any 3 bands out of a selection of 6.  At $225 I don't think it's a bargain, but unlike the MTR, you get a full numerical display and knobs to turn.

gil

The Weber Tri-Bander is a through hole version of the surface mount MTR.

Note that the KX3 kit does not require any soldering, only a screwdriver..

Gil

cockpitbob

I've been exercising good self discipline and not getting one of those cheap QRP rigs from eBay (Frog Sounds, Super Rockmite, Forty 9er).  It's getting harder though.  QST just had an article were someone took the Forty-9er and added a digital VFO and LCD display and he claims a cost of $30 (I think he forgot about shipping).  It looks like a fun project.  Maybe for $50 I could have a full coverage 40meter 3W rig with fancy LCD display.
If anyone is interested, I have a .pdf of the article I could email you.  PM me.  If someone else builds it that may scratch my itch and save me from having to ignore my chores and build one. ::)

gil

Hi, I've looked at those too Bob, but I am always worried that the lack of filtering will make them unpleasant to listen to, unless one uses a magnetic loop.. Which makes me think that I might want to make another one of those... My last one had a perimeter of 21ft but was slightly too big for 20m. Darn, now I'll have to go look at vacuum capacitors on Ebay!
Gil

cockpitbob

Consider the New England QRP clubs switched capacitor filter kit.  For my MFJ-9420 (with CW module) I keep thinking I want a little box with the filter and a PicoKeyer in it.  That would compliment any rig with no keyer and poor audio filtering.

Or, instead of having a dozen little boxes for keyers, filters, different bands and modes, an FT817 would do it all.

Jim Boswell

The 817 is a good radio, I used to have one but decided the Icom 703 fit my skills better. With the Icom 703 you gain an internal antenna tunner. You can add the CW filter to the 703. If you wanted a only CW rig, I would consider the Youkits 4 bander.
I have used the New England QRP clubs switched capacitor filter kit and it improves the RX audio from every radio I tried. Most of the time I only work 40 and 20 meters SSB. I also have an Oak Hills dual bander. Pretty good radio but the chassis is real boxy. You could move the guts to a more compact chassis and you would have a great little radio. Good Luck, 73'S  KA5SIW

cockpitbob

Quote from: Jim Boswell on March 18, 2016, 12:05:36 PM
The 817 is a good radio, I used to have one but decided the Icom 703 fit my skills better. With the Icom 703 you gain an internal antenna tunner. You can add the CW filter to the 703. If you wanted a only CW rig, I would consider the Youkits 4 bander.
I have used the New England QRP clubs switched capacitor filter kit and it improves the RX audio from every radio I tried. Most of the time I only work 40 and 20 meters SSB. I also have an Oak Hills dual bander. Pretty good radio but the chassis is real boxy. You could move the guts to a more compact chassis and you would have a great little radio. Good Luck, 73'S  KA5SIW
I have their old 2 bander and it's a great rig.  Now they make a 5 bander:  40/30/20/17/15 for $300.  Rx current is an acceptable 85mA.  If 80 meters was one of the bands I would probably already own one.  With the coming decline in sunspot activity 80 is going to get more popular.

Rescue9

Get the m0nka mcHF and give it a go. Its a great little radio in my opinion. Much easier to use than my 857d is. I plan on rebuilding my RF board in the next few months since I fried some traces hacking new mods on.