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Messages - gil

#2521
Hi all,

I would like to emphasize again that one doesn't have to learn Morse code to use CW. Fldigi decodes Morse very well and allows sending via the keyboard, just like any other digital mode. The advantage of CW is that it can also be decoded by the human brain. That is of course my primary tool for decoding, but yours can be your computer. I actually do use Fldigi at home as a backup, when my brain decides to use it's resources for other background tasks and I lose decode capability for a short while  :o

So, what's the advantage? Well, first of all, obviously, you can reach more stations with this digital mode, since Hams without a computer can copy you. In a major SHTF situation, I suspect most digital stations will be down quickly, for lack of power to recharge batteries. Only the best prepared stations will continue to operate, and for how long? Second, as an example, I plan on a one week camping trip in a few weeks. The site I am thinking about is nine miles from the road. That means pulling a small cart with five gallons of water, food for a week and my camping gear. There is no way in hell I will add the weight of a laptop, bigger battery and solar panel. A small CW rig is not only a must but the only option in such a case. Something like an FT-817ND would work, but then we get into battery capacity problems again. CW is where it's at when it comes to leaving the house with communication capabilities.

My KX3 has RTTY and PSK31 built-in, allowing to send using the Morse paddles. It's great, but honestly, it doesn't do anything more than CW... Sure, Morse might be a bit slower than another keyboard-input mode, but it works just the same.

So, even if you don't want to learn Morse, you can still use it as a computer-controlled digital mode and reach more people than you would other wise do.  Given that most digital QSOs are just the RST73 type, which for me I think is a waste of my time, Morse offers more rag-chewing opportunities.

Gil.
#2522
Digital Modes / Signalink USB noise issues.
February 10, 2013, 11:22:03 AM
Anyone wanting to buy a Signalink USB interface might want to read the following articles. I am not sure I will buy one. Any good alternatives? I am sure it works fine, but apparently the noise from the USB supplied voltage is a problem..

http://www.frenning.dk/OZ1PIF_HOMEPAGE/SignaLinkUSB-mods.html

http://www.frenning.dk/OZ1PIF_HOMEPAGE/images/Wireless%20Article%20-%20Signalink%20USB%20Mods%20v6.pdf

http://www.k7sfn.com/projects/signalink.html

The noise problem apparently can be fixed for a few cents but does require some soldering..

Gil.
#2524
QuoteSo an Omni at one end and a Yagi at the other is no problem as long as they are both oriented the same way.

Correct.

Gil.
#2525
Here is what  I got from Ron Wilhelm, the Elecraft guru:

QuoteYou do not need a SignaLink box to use any data modes, including RMS
Express - just feed the audio in an out to the soundcard.
You may need a galvanic isolator (transformer) between the KX3 and the
soundcard to improve the signal to noise ratio and reduce "ground loops".
The audio level considerations are important.  Many laptop soundcards
have only mic level inputs and the KX3 headphone output level will
overdrive it without an attenuator.  Going the other way, the soundcard
Line out is at too high a level to directly drive the microphone input
of the KX3, so again an attenuator is required.

The advantage of using an interface device like the SignaLink (or
others) is that they do provide not only an external USB soundcard, but
also the galvanic isolation and the level conversion.
#2526
QuoteDid you find one with XP on it, or did it come with Win7?

I did not see a single one with XP. I certainly did not want Windows 8! So, I got a Lenovo E430 with the i5 processor and Windows 7 Pro. I left it on but installed Linux Mint 13 also and use that 99% of the time.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834312087

Gil.
#2527
QuoteCan the antennas be different types?

Yes, but they need to be polarized the same way. Using a vertical antenna to communicate to a horizontal antenna won't work well at all. 2m FM usually uses verticals, and 2m SSB horizontally polarized antennas. It's just a convention, not a rule of man or physics.

Gil.
#2528
Doesn't matter.. As long as you have a phone out and mike in you're good to go..

Gil.
#2529
General Discussion / Re: Just for Fun
February 09, 2013, 01:37:21 AM
LOL! Maybe it was intentional! Nah...

Sometimes I hear faint CW on the radio. I turn the knob to zero-beat it, and the tone doesn't change.. Because it isn't there!  :o

Gil.
#2530
I meant "Signalink" sorry.

Gil.
#2531
Tactical Corner / Re: Building Your Own EMP Faraday Cage
February 08, 2013, 03:52:10 PM
I don't think batteries need protection...

Gil.
#2532
Antennas / Re: HT Antennas
February 08, 2013, 03:48:56 PM
How would I make my own glass mount transformer?

Gil.
#2533
Hello,

I just got a laptop with Windows on it and installed RMS Express. I don't have the Winklink box yet but will get one soon and set-up a radio email address!

Gil.
#2534
Anything between 20 and 500 miles is a challenge... I can have  QSO 800 miles away using 100mW on CW but not being able to reach someone 50 miles away. Case in point, Tim and I have tried a few times, unsuccessfully. 30 miles is the maximum line-of-sight distance.. Though ground waves and other weird propagation modes can extend range without ionosphere bounce.. 2m SSB can get you 250 miles, but requires power and a beam antenna. NVIS works once you find out how to set-up your antenna, by trial and error..

Luke, would that 4x70' square loop work 20' off the ground?

Gil.
#2535
Well, since Geek is going to start with a Tech license, I think that 2m FM and 10m SSB are the way to go...
There are plenty of Radio Shack HTX-10 for sale on Ebay, very cheap. Worth a try..
AND you can make the same antenna work for CB and 10m!

Gil.