The Rock-Mite is a great kit to get started building kits, but not the greatest to start QRP and CW. The problem with it is the lack of a VFO, thus a fixed frequency. You must be VERY patient with it and use a good antenna like an end-fed, not a Buddistick or anything like that. Not that it won't work, but it would make things way more difficult. My best advise would be to start with a Rock-Mite for a mere $40 plus a few items (antenna BNC, jacka, button, etc.) to practice kit biulding, and once it works, immediately get a kit with a VFO. You'll have much more fun and success with that, no frustration. The power isn't that important. 3W will get you almost anywhere. The Rock-Mite, you keep as a backup..

Gil.

Do you have a kit that you've built with a VFO that you use and would recommend? American Morse Equipment makes a snazzy encloser and wee paddles to go with the RM kit. Not sure if it'll fit the RMII that's taken its place, though. I'll probably get that as a starter.

What's your budget?

Gil.

Heck, I don't know. I can't see myself spending 400 bucks on one. 250 would be my absolute maximum, and that'd be after I'd built some other kit and learned CW pretty dang well.

Quote from: NWARadio on April 22, 2014, 09:52:41 PM
Do you have a kit that you've built with a VFO that you use and would recommend? American Morse Equipment makes a snazzy encloser and wee paddles to go with the RM kit. Not sure if it'll fit the RMII that's taken its place, though. I'll probably get that as a starter.

The Weber Tri Band is a great rig (as is anything from Hendricks). I haven't built it but I did build it's predecessor the Weber Dual Band, awesome rig.

Yep. Get the Weber Tri-Bander from qrpkits.com then.

Gil.

Another vote for the Weber Tri-bander.  I haven't built one, but really want to after everything I've read.

The Hendricks kits are great performers and the excellent instructions make them go together easily with few if any problems. If there was one thing I would change about the kits from Hendricks it would be the enclosure finish; they come shipped with none, just bare aluminum with a relatively rough surface. If you want a nice looking rig it will take some sandpaper, elbow grease and paint. Of course a nice painted and silkscreen enclosure would increase the price of the kit but in my case I'd be willing to pay it for while I can do it, finish work is the one aspect of building stuff I don't enjoy.

While the Tri Band wasn't really designed as a trail rig like the KX1, PFR3, MTR, etc are, it will still work out in the field quite well, my Dual Band was my trail rig for quite a while until I got my KX1. For $200 it's hard to go wrong - you get a lot of rig for the money.

If I were to buy a Tri Band (as if I need another QRP rig 8) ) my band choices would be 20, 30 and 40 meters (my Dual Band is 20 and 40 meters) but that's just my preference based on my operating habits so don't let me decide for you.

The PFR3: http://qrpkits.com/pfr3.html would be a good choice for a trail rig, especially with the built-in tuner...

Gil.

Quote from: gil on April 22, 2014, 11:06:29 PM
The PFR3: http://qrpkits.com/pfr3.html would be a good choice for a trail rig, especially with the built-in tuner...

Gil.

Back when I decided to get a more trail friendly radio my choices were down to the PFR3 or the KX1, both of which have very similar features and are designed around the same concept. Both are comparable and excellent rigs but for me the KX1 won. Although considerably more expensive than the PFR3 by the time you add all options to the KX1, it's superior ergonomics (in my opinion) convinced me to part with the extra cash.

Had I bought the PFR3 I would have regretted not getting the "better" KX1 until I couldn't stand it any longer and then I would have bought one after the fact. I've learned over the years that it's actually cheaper for me in the long run if I just go ahead and get the "thing" I really want even if it's more expensive than the other "thing"............ one expensive "thing" is cheaper than one expensive "thing" plus a less expensive "thing". 8)

The nice thing about the extra cost of the loaded KX1 is that you don't have to spend it all at the beginning; the 30/80 meter module, ATU, and integrated paddle modules can all be purchased and added later or not at all. The stock KX1 is still a very capable rig and only $60 more than the PFR3.

QuoteI've learned over the years that it's actually cheaper for me in the long run if I just go ahead and get the "thing" I really want even if it's more expensive than the other "thing"............ one expensive "thing" is cheaper than one expensive "thing" plus a less expensive "thing".

I couldn't agree more. I also found out that I should never sell the more expensive thing or I will end-up buying it again later. For example, I've owned three Nikon F3s through the years, and I know I might buy a fourth one.. Same for other things I have bought, like two Cold Steel Master Tantos, etc, etc. I sold my K1 and I miss it badly. Some things are so well built, useful and have a "je ne sais quoi" that they acquire a certain status as "keepers." Call that an emotional attachment if you will, but I think it is sort of an aesthetic and practical quality. Elecraft radios are kind of like that, hence the name "Ele(gant)craft." Building them also adds to their value. Or my Weber MTR.. It is small, efficient, clever, hard to find and I built it myself! I also value mechanical devices rather than electric ones.. So much for radios :o My cameras are mechanical, no batteries in them; same for my watch.. That's probably why I like QRP CW rigs, they are simple, if not always in design, in operation.

I'm not materialistic in the sense that I don't want to own much stuff at all. I do want quality stuff though. It is always a mistake to sell quality stuff.

Darn, it's late and I'm babbling like an old man ::)

Definitely, saving to buy the item you really want is the right way to go!

Gil.

Looks like the PFR-3 will only tune a balanced line. Gil recommended a longwire, and I'm not sure what that qualifies as. So far, from reading specs, I like the Weber. Looks like I'd have to have an external tuner for anything that uses coax. Am I right?

Quote from: NWARadio on April 23, 2014, 05:10:36 PM
Looks like the PFR-3 will only tune a balanced line. Gil recommended a longwire, and I'm not sure what that qualifies as. So far, from reading specs, I like the Weber. Looks like I'd have to have an external tuner for anything that uses coax. Am I right?

Gil was probably referring to an EFHW (end fed half wave) antenna which is essentially just a long wire. That's basically what the tuner in the PFR3 was designed to feed by attaching directly to the out put sans feed line, but it will still feed dipoles, verticals, loops, etc fed with either coaxial or balanced feed line.

For truly quick, simple and highly portable operating in the field, the EFHW fed directly from the rig can't be beat. It's nothing more than a chunk of wire tossed into a tree with a shorter chunk on the ground as a counterpoise - no heavy, bulky feed line to carry, get lost or be too short and it only needs a single support. On top of all that it's a great performer on the air........... it's the only antenna I use when portable.

QuoteGil was probably referring to an EFHW (end fed half wave) antenna which is essentially just a long wire.

Yep. The end-fed is a half-wave wire with a tuning box at the bottom where you plug your coax. A great one is the PAR trail 10/20/40m model. I use that wire/choke assembly with an EFWH tuner (photo attached) which was made by betterqrp.com but unfortunately is no longer available. I like the fact that you can use coax with them and have the antenna a little further away from you or your tent.. I have the regular PAR 10/20/40 at home as my main HF antenna.

Gil.

You can get essentially the same thing at QRPKITS.com.  The circuit is identical.  Just the box is different. 

Gil,  I use a 63' wire and it is resonant on 40/20/15/10.  Any idea why the Par doesn't do 15M?  Maybe something in the coil?